The Complete Guide to Maintaining Suede and Nubuck Boots

Suede and nubuck boots are a cornerstone of timeless style. Their velvety texture and refined look make them stand out, but they also require special attention. Unlike smooth leather, these materials are more delicate, porous, and prone to staining.

This guide covers everything you need to know about cleaning, protecting, brushing, and storing suede and nubuck boots , so they stay sharp for years to come.

What’s the Difference Between Suede and Nubuck?

Before diving into care, it helps to understand the materials:

• Suede: Made from the underside of the hide, giving it a soft, fuzzy texture with a looser grain.

• Nubuck: Made from the outer side of the hide, then sanded down to create a velvety surface. It’s slightly tougher and more durable than suede.

Both are luxurious but more absorbent than full-grain leather, which is why maintenance is essential.

Step 1: Protect Before You Wear

One of the biggest mistakes boot owners make is skipping protection. Apply a water- and stain-repellent spray designed for suede/nubuck before the first wear.

• Hold the spray about 6 inches away.

• Apply evenly, without soaking the boot.

• Let them dry for 24 hours before wearing.

Reapply every few weeks (or more often in wet climates). This step alone extends the life of your boots significantly.

Step 2: Brush Regularly

The “nap” (tiny fibers) gives suede and nubuck their texture, but it also traps dust and gets flattened. A good brush restores the nap and prevents buildup.

• Crepe brush: Best for delicate nap revival.

• Brass or wire brush: Effective on stubborn dirt or thicker nubuck.

Brush lightly in one direction after every 2–3 wears. This prevents dirt from setting in and keeps the boots looking fresh.

Step 3: Spot Clean Stains

When stains strike, timing is everything:

• Dry stains (dirt, scuffs): Use a suede eraser (or a clean pencil eraser). Rub gently until the mark fades.

• Wet stains (spills, rain spots): Blot immediately with a clean cloth. Let dry naturally avoid heat. Then brush the nap.

• Oil stains: Sprinkle cornstarch or talcum powder on the spot. Leave overnight to absorb, then brush off.

⚠️ Avoid soaking suede or scrubbing aggressively, this can permanently damage the nap.

Step 4: Handle Water Marks the Right Way

If boots develop water lines after drying, even out the entire surface:

1. Lightly dampen the whole boot with a clean, damp sponge.

2. Let it air dry evenly (no direct sunlight or heaters).

3. Once dry, brush the nap to restore texture.

This prevents patchy discoloration.

Step 5: Store with Care

Storage is just as important as cleaning:

• Use cedar shoe trees to maintain shape and absorb moisture.

• Keep boots in a dust bag or box in a cool, dry space.

• Avoid plastic containers that trap humidity (a suede boot’s worst enemy).

Step 6: Know When to Go Pro

Some damage requires expert care. If your boots suffer from:

• Deep oil stains

• Large water damage

• Faded or bald nap

…take them to a professional cobbler. They have tools like steamers and special dyes that can restore suede and nubuck far beyond what DIY can do.

Bonus Tips from Experts

• Rotate boots wearing the same pair daily shortens lifespan.

• Avoid suede in snow or heavy rain, even if protected.

• For color refresh: suede dyes can restore vibrancy, but test carefully first.

Final Word

Suede and nubuck boots aren’t just footwear they’re an investment in style and craftsmanship. With proper protection, regular brushing, and careful cleaning, they’ll only look better as the years go by.

At Osstone, we believe true luxury is meant to last. Caring for your boots is the key to making that happen.